'THE MIDDLE EASTERN WAR NOBODY KNOWS', BY SMITH HEMPSTONE

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CIA-RDP79-01194A000100540001-6
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RIPPUB
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S
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14
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November 11, 2016
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August 6, 1998
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1
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Publication Date: 
September 9, 1974
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REPORT
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25X1 C1 Ob Approved For Release 1999/09/02 : CIA-RDP79-01194A000100540001-6 Approved For Release 1999/09/02 : CIA-RDP79-01194A000100540001-6 CPYRGHT CPYRGHT CPYRGHT IA.RDP4)11 94A0G01 oompmitii Kurds fight- stern o vs This is the first in a series of six articles on the war between the Iraqi government and its 2.5 million Kurdish minority ? "The War No. body Knows." By Smith llempstone Star-News Staff Writer I-IAJ OMRAN. Iraoi Kurdistan ? "You are- welcome," said Idriss Barzani. The uncertain, light of the flickering kerosene lantern illumi- nated his red-and-white turban and his finely- honed features. "You are very welcome in- deed." Outside the sandbagged bunker, one sensed; rather than saw the groups of armed men hunkered down in the moonlight, one eye on the Rumi?(Roman, hence any Westerner) who had made his way to Idriss' tent, the other on the Big Dipper and the Bear, from which an, Iraqi air raid might come. AND INDEED, the 30-year-old third son and chief of staff of the leader of the Kurdish rebel movement had, cause to welcome an Ameri- can newsman to his camp high in the moun- tains of northern Iraq. Since serious fighting erupted here in mid-April, no American cOrre- .spondent had made his way to this mountain fastness east of the Tigris and the Euphrates. Yet here, in this stark and beautiful land of towering peaks capped by eternal snows, a Middle Eastern war without witnesses is being waged by the ,Arab Baathist government of Iraq against its Kurdish minority of 2.5 million people. As we sat cross-legged on a Persian carpet, sipping tiny glasses of heavily-sugared tea, messengers from the front 'came and went on. sandaled feet and a field telephone rang insist- ently in the back of the bunker. Idriss hitched his Belgian-made .45-caliber automatic pistol into a more comfortable position and gave me a brief accounting of the situation. It was, he said, a war pitting his turbanned,. Kurdish tribesmen and their bolt-action Brno rifles against the most modern Russian T-60 tanks, of a few ancient and villages, leaving his Dushka 12.7mm. anti-air- people destitute but defiant. craft machine guns against This war, Idriss said, his the most sophisticated words punctuated by the supersonic Soviet Tupolev- dull thud of Iraqi bombs 22 bombers, of curved falling westward down the Kurdish daggers wielded si- valley toward Chouman, lently in the night and roll- was the fifth and most seri- ing fireballs of Iraqi na- ous Kurdish war since 1961. palm that consunctip.glifld 'pierce, kaa, he saring-.9 tion of a black mustache, be only one outcome to this conflict: autonomy for his people within a democratic. Iraq or their extinction. I knew it was not the first time the Kurds had faced such a prospect in the 4,000 years since the founding of the Kingdom of Gutium. They, who like their cousins the Iranians are Moslems but not Semites, harried Xemophon's 10,000, battled the Romans, Parthians and Mongols, and made war against half a hundred king- doms, governments and em- pires. But despite, a deserved reputation for ferocity, the Kutels have seldom left. their land of swift-flowing mountain streams, ancient oak trees and red-legged partridges to harass their neighbors. This war, like earlier ones, is in defense of the land and integrity of a people denied their own na- tion. The Kurds here in Iraq, led by 71-year-old Mulla Mustapha Barzani, are locked in a make-or- break struggle with their Arab rulers; if they fail, the Kurdish nationalist move- ment, like that of their Armenian neighbors, will disappear into history. TIIE KURDS, who were promised their own nation by the never-implemented 1920 Treaty of Sevres, are .divided among five nations. Kurdish nationalists say there are 5 million in Tur- key, 4 million in Iran, 2.5 million here in Iraq, 600,000 in Syria and 150,000 in the? Soviet Union. The govern- ments concerned say those figures are high. The Turks deny the very existence of the Kurds. "We have only mountain Turks who have forgotten their native tongue," they say And they have done their best to make this so. In the last century and the first , third of the present one, there were countless rebel- lions in eastern Turkey that resulted in the massacre and deportation of hundreds of$sii. ing for their survival against their Arab over- lords, the Turks have closed their border against the rebels. The Kurds have fared better in Iran. There was a brief reign of terror there atter the collapse in 1946 of the Kardish Mahabad republic set up in northern Iran by the departing Rus- sians. The republic's lead- ers were hanged, their sup- porters .mprisoned and the wearing of the Kurdish na- tional ccstume and the use of the language were ban- ned. IRAN'S SHAH Moham- med Rea Pahlavi has re- moved these proscriptions and distributed many of his persona estates to his Kurdish subjects. The Ira- nians have left open their border for trade and a small flow of arms and am- munition to the rebellious Iraqi Ku -ds, more than 60,- 000 of whom (mostly women and chil iren) have taken -refuge in Iran. The Sah's help is not wholly cisinterested: Iran and Iraq dispute the sover- eignty of the waterway call- ed the Shatt al-Arab, some 90,000 Iranians were expell- Bd from Iraq a couple of years ag (at which time :here w 1,re artillery ex- .thanges )etween Iraqi and Iranian ' forces), Iraqi agents continue to infiltrate Iran to snuggle arms to dis- sident E aluchi tribesmen and Ira liar' troops are fighting Iraqi-backed Dho- fari rebels in the Persian Gulf emirate of Oman. . The Societ Union, al- though it gave sanctuary to Barzani nd 500 of his fol- lowers in 1947 after the col- lapse or the Mahabad republic, long ago snuffed out the spark of nationalism among itr own Kurds. Mos- cow, which seeks in Iraq a base from which to extend its influence over the oil- rich Pers an Gulf, is pour- ing sophisticated aircraft and tanks into Iraq at a rate of more than $1 billion annually. Soviet air force officers c )ordinate the air attacks on undefended Kurdish villages, their air- men reportedly fly an occa- sional oombat mission thernselv rs, and Russian advisors serve with the ?Iiajii. zn',,atjeast down to CPYRGHT g. the brigade ldWIJI VVU rut citoV t Just as Barzani's Kurdish rebels would have no chance of success without Iranian help, Iraq could not hope for victory against the Kurds without this massive flow of Russian military., hardware. Indeed, the Sunni Baathists, the Kurds say, are so unpopular with their more numerous Shiite subjects ? the theological distinction is roughly com- parable to that between Protestants and Catholics ? that the government in Baghdad almost certainly would fall of its own repres- sive weight were it not propped up by Russia. SYRIA, TOO, is a Baathist state (the Beath party is a pan-Arabist, non- Communist movement that rejects Egyptian Arab socialism) and the 600,000 Kurds who live there do so; as a depressed and distrust- ed minority. There is a Kurdish saying that "the Kurds have no friends." But Israel, like Iran, has an obvious inter- est in and sympathy for the Iraqi Kurds, if only because the five Kurdish revolts since 1961 have effectively tied down the bulk of Iraq's air force, its 7.,000 tanks and six of its eight infantry divi- sions. There have been reputable reports of Israeli aid to the Kurds, but both, sides deny these and they cannot be confirmed. Whatever and from whom the flow of arms and money, it is not enough to give the Kurds the sophisti- cated anti-tank and anti-air- craft weapons necessary to launch and sustain the major offensive into the oil fields of the lowlands that is necessary to give them victory. On the other hand, the Iraqis, despite their vast su- periority in weapons and equipment, particularly tanks and aircraft (of which the Kurds have neither), Jack either the will or the ability to fight their way into the mountainous heart- land of Kurdistan. In the first five weeks after fighting broke out on March 11, heavy spring rains kept the conflict at a low level. But with the bombing on April 24 of the undefended Kurdish town of Qara Dizeh, in which 130 fighting has grown ;i; ally. THE KURDS appear to have had the best of it. Ma- s'oud Barzani, the national- ist leader's 28-year-old fourth son, who is head of Kurdish military intelligence, esti- mates that nearly 2,000 Iraqis have been killed (the bodies of more than 600, abandoned on the battlefield, have been recovered by the Kurds, he says), 3,000 wounded and 100 captured, In addition, he reports that more than 700 members of the Iraqi army, 500 of them officers and most of them Kurds, have defected to the rebels, as have 315 Kurdish mercenaries employed by Baghdad. ? Despite the small numbe? r and inadequate caliber of their weapons, the Kurds claim to have destroyed more than 100 Iraqi tanks and armored cars, and to have knocked out nearly 300 other vehicles. They say they have downed 23 air- planes and damaged 16 others. This has been accom- plished, the Kurds say, at a cost of fewer than 200 of their own men, called Pesh Merge (literally, "those who face death") killed and 400 wounded. But nearly 400 civilians have been killed and 700 wounded in the more than 2,000 around-the- clock Iraqi air raids that have destroyed nearly 500 undefended villages and hamlets. THESE STATISTICS may not be entirely accurate; if only because firm informa- tion is difficult to get here. At any rate, they are all one has to go on, since it was not until late July, with the casualties mounting and the reserves mobilized, that the Iraqi government admitted there was anything like a war going on in Kurdistan. On the basis of visits to four fronts, it would seem that the Kurdish claims are at least within the ballpark. The Kurdish Pesh Merga are possibly the world's fin- est mountain troops. Armed with a bizarre assortment of Sniders, Martinis, Brnos, Lee-Enfields and Russian Kalashvikov automatic rifles captured from the Iraqis, they scamper like to peak. At the front, they live on yoghurt, grey, ; doughy bread and heavily- sugared tea. There are only walking wounded: The: others die before they can be brought down from the mountains. The Pesh Merga are superbly led by men some of whorn have been -with Barzani for nearly 30 years. Many of the division and battalion commanders have served in one particular mountain range, every foot of Which they know, for eight, 10 or 12 years. While the Kurds hold three static fronts vital to them in which no retreat is allowed ? Barzan, Bilak and Shaqlawah ? the con- flict in most areas is essen- tially a guerrilla one. When government forces, heavily supported by tanks and air- craft, move up a valley, the Kurds inflict such losses as they can upon them, then pull back into the moun- ss the flanks and rear of the invaders. The Iraqis, remembering a: -disaster in the1 1966 war when a 1,200- force was cu massacred to th tend to be estr tious. Usually, ing or havestin and destroying under their co pull back to th the plains. an Iraqi off and last man, mely cau- f ter burn- the crops y villages trot, they safety of The Kurdish territory under 24-hour r bel control is limited to th mountain- ous country in a riangle be- tween the Turld h and Per- sian frontiers, a area 200 miles in length d no more than 60 deep. B t there are Kurdish partis ns far be- hind the Iraqi lines and when night falls, the territo- ry under Baghd d's control shrinks to that lighted by the searchlight of their garrisons. The Kurds, Who after dark move and raid virtual- TURKEY U.S.S.R. Lake Urmis IRAQ 11PIAGHDAD REBEL HELD 0 50 100 150 200 rl TRADITIONAL )iZQITM2Tg La KURDISTAN Since this map was drawn the Iraqis have broken through to take Qal'a Dizeh, split- ting the rebel-held area in two. Ruwandiz and Rania also have fallen in battles that the Kurds say cost the Iraqis more ban 1,000 dead. Iran has reinforced her troops in the Iraqi frontier. pprovea ror Feiease 1 iUiUi. - - CPYRGHT Approved For 'Isr at will over much of Iraq, have 60,000 Pesh Merga in the field, organized in 40 battalions, and 40,000 tribal irregulars. They claim that if they had the arms to give them, they could easily raise another 100,000 fight- ing men. Arrayed against them are more than 70,000 Iraqi troops supported by 150 jet airplanes and 1300 tanks. The Kurds are extremely sensitive to suggestions that MuIla Mustapha Barzani does not have the total sup- port of the entire Kurdish people. The Baghdad gov- ernment has managed to find 60 Kurds to serve in a puppet advisory council and has enlisted 6,000 Kurdish mercenaries, drawn mainly from the Kurdish Commu- nist Party and from tribes traditionally opposed to Bar- zani. Obeiclullah Barzani ("a traitor and a mercenary who will be treated as such," according to his brother Mas'oud), the general's eldest son, is a minister without portfolio in the Baathist government. HAVING SAID THIS, however, it must be added that Barzani does seem to have the firm support of the great majority of the Kurds, both tribal and edu- cated, who regard him with a reverence bordering on awe. Perhaps the greatest tribute to the legitimacy of his leadership is the $2 mil- lion price the Baathists re- portedly have put on his head. Barzani agreed to a truce in March 1970 when the Baathists granted the principle of Kurdish autono- my. Kurdistan was to have its own schools, courts, local administration, inter- nal security forces and a share of the Iraqi oil reve- nues commensurate with its percentage of the popula- tion. But after the signing in 1972 of Iraq's 20-year treaty of friendship and coopera- tion with the Soviet Union, the Baathists, given access to the most sophisticated Russian weapons, saw no reason to negotiate Kurdish autonomy. Instead, they unilaterally promulgated a take-it-or-leave-it decree Release 1999/09/02 ? that afforded the Kurds no CPYRGHT GiA-RnP7A-n1 I cuAnnninnstionni-R of dawn. There was rnuch "are? on our side.- We will 'hawking and spitting fight and, if necessary, we among the bodyguards clustered outside Idriss' tent. "And what," I asked him, "will you do if you do not get American help?" He shrugged his narrow shoulders. Gut] tind the mutuataluz share in the oil revenues and amounted, the Kurds 'claim, to no more than decentralization, with an appointive Kurdish council rather than elected one. When Barzani rejected the offer, fighting broke out. And this year, for the first time, he has been joined in the mountains by a great mass of urban intellectual Kurds who in the past had been troubled by the con- servative nature of his lead- ership. ? ? If one is to judge by the fury of their air raids on undefended villages and their treatment of Kurdish civilians who fall into their hands, the Iraqis are deter- mined this time to seek a "final solution" to their Kurdish problem (the Kurds have been trying without success to press charges of genocide against Baghdad at the United Na- tions). For their part, the Kurds say there is no ? chance of negotiations with a repressive Baathist re- gime that already, and more than once, has demonstrated its bad faith. There is, Idriss Barzani told me, only one question: Will an Arab military dicta- torship, supported by the full military might of the Soviet Union, crush the Kurds? Or will the Kurds somewhere find the anti- tank and anti-aircraft guns that will enable them to come down out of the moun- tains and inflict a telling de- feat on the Iraqis? "WE CAN BEAT the Iraqis," Idriss said, pound- ing his small fist into the ? palm of his hand for empha- sis. "we always have. But we cannot defeat the Rus- sians without American help." "Kissinger must see," Idriss continued, "that the Russian presence in Iraq has as its objective Soviet dominance of the Persian Gulf and its oil. Is this real- ly in America's interest? And, if it is not, why not give us the little bit of help that we need to defeat the Baathists and expel the Russians from our coun- try?" It was very late, the stars were fading and in the east were the first pale streaks ? will die. But we will never give in, for this would mear the end of us as a people." The Iraqi artillery could be heard grumbling faintly far away to the west. There would, it seemed, be some dying this day in the Gorge of All Rog. Chapter 2 By Smith Hempstone Star-News Staff Writer DERBND, Iraqi Kurdistan ? Getting there, they say, is halt the fun. If war-wracked and remote Iraqi Kurdistan is your destination, it can also demand the cunning of a Machiavelli, the patience of a Job and a healthy set of spinal. discs. Which perhaps is one reason so few Ainerican reporters have covered the five Kurdish rebellions since 1961. It began for me with a telephone call on a Monday morning late in June. Would I, my friend asked, be willing to talk to a delegation of Iraqi Kurds? Knowing that fierce fighting had broken out once again between the Kurds, an Indo-Aryan Moslem people, and their Arab overlords ? and on a far more seri- ous level than ever before --I said I 'would see them the next morning. When I arrived at work the next day, the three Kurds were waiting for me: Abdul (Semi) Rahman, a former Communist, until March the Iraqi minister for Northern (Le., Kurdish) Affairs and a member of the Kurdish Democratic Party's , seven-man ruling politburo: ' Mohammed Dizayee, a former Iraqi ambassador (to Czechoslovakia and, later, Canada) and, until fight- ing broke out in March, minister of public works and housing in the Baghdad government, and M. S. Dosky, another former Iraqi diplo- mat All were dressed in well-cut busi- ness suits and, except for the bris- tling mustaches without which any Kurd feels naked, they bore little resemblance to the bandoleered mountaineers who for 4,000 years defended their mountain homeland in Iraq, Turkey, Syria, Iran and the- Soviet Union, (In 260 A.D., a Kurd- ish army in the service of the Sassa- nid Persians defeated the Boman emperor Valerian; he was flayed CPYRGHT Approved For RPiPaCPI Aggingin9 ? CIA-RDP79701I947:01001'00.54000ve CPYRGHT and his stuffed App 'e as a war trophy in the imperial pal- ace at Seleucia Ctesiphon.) ? TIIE PURPOSE of their visit, Abdul Rahman said, was to try to This is the second in a series Of six articles On the war_be- tween the Iraqi government and its 2.5 million Kurdish minority --The War Nobody Knows." rally American support for the 2.5 million Iraqi Kurds against whom the Baathist government had launched a genocidal war, bombing undefended villages, burning crops and driving 60,000 refugees across the Iranian border. " For reasons I can only partially Analyze, I decided on the spur of the moment that I would, if it were possible, make my way to Kurdis- tan to see what was happening with my own eyes. That, Dosky said, could easily be' arranged. While the Turkish fron- tier was closed, I had only to get myself to Tehran, and the Kurdish Democratic Party would see to it .that I reached the liberated zone of Iraqi Kurdistan. But although I had never been to Iran, I knew that I couldn't reach Kurdistan without the knowledge and consent of SAVAK, the ubiquitous Iranian se- cret police. Dosky suggested that SAVAK would pose no problem. I obtained a multiple-entry visa at the Iranian embassy and let it be' known that my ultimate destination was Iraqi Kurdistan where, in ,the eyes of the Baghdad government, I would be an illegal :Ind highly un- wanted visitor. Since relations be- tween Iran and Iraq, rivals for hegemony in the Shatt al-Arab and the Persian Gulf, are characterized by a thinly veiled hostility punctuat- ed by gunfire, it seemed unlikely, that the Iranians would be unduly distressed by my travel plans. "Where you go after you leave my country," the Iranian official said with just a suggestion of a smile playing on his lip's, "is no concern of mine. By the way, I would not be surprised if someone called on you at your hotel in Tehran." I made discreet inquiries at the Central Intelligence Agency as to whether a request on my part for an informal 'briefing on the Kurdish situation would be Well received. Because of Watergate and other publicity ? or perhaps because CIA was embarrassed by its lack of knowledge on the situation ? the re- sponse was negative. From the State Department, I re- ceived a rather sketchy low-level briefing, two invaluable large-scale British maps of northern Iraq and the distinct feeling that they wished I eaSeeedr9i9a14942eincilAtROR79 -13 100649049 (4154QQ4) t &With" , United States, while it sympathizes you; if you can, make hiri your friend. In this affair, he ca help you ? or hurt you ? a great eal." ? 4' The day before my scheduled' 'departure, I ran into CIA Director William Colby at a Blair Honse re- tirement party for Adm. Tho as H. Moorer, who was stepping d wn as chairman of the Joint Chiefs o1 Staff. "I'm on my way to Iraqi urdis- tan," I said. "What can yoi tell. me?" on humanitarian grounds with the plight of the Kurds, is intent on, warming up its rather frosty rela- tions with the Baathist regime in Baghdad. That, too, is the position of the other major powers with interests in the area ? the Soviet Union, Britain and France ? and the reason is oil: Iraq exports about $9 billion worth annually, and much of it goes to the West. DOSKY AND I met again in a Washington restaurant where he "gave me letters of introduction to Kurdish agent's in London, Paris and Tehran, and to other Kurdish officials at the rebel headquarters in the mountains of Iraq. I started getting my inoculations ? typhoid, gamma globulin, chol- era, smallpox and polio ? began a mustache that I hoped would enable me to pass more easily as a Circas- sian among tribes of doubtful loyal- ty to the rebel cause, and checked out from the Library of Congress its seven books on Kurdistan. Both of the reporters who had gotten into Kurdistan during the fighting in the 1960s and had written books about it had entered on horseback. So I started to assemble camping gear. With my departure set for July 29, by then only four days away, I began to get a little concerned about my lack of current informa- tion on the state of the rebellion. I was, after all, entrusting my life to two men I had met only once, and a third I had seen but twice. Since it was pretty clear that I was not going to receive' much help from the United States government, I decided to take a chance and in- crease the number of people who knew of my plans. I got in touch with a friend at the British embassy and told him of my destination and my problem. "You ought to call on M in London on your way out," he said. "He is extremely knowledgeable." That did not help much, so I re- vealed my plan to another friend, the ambassador of an Asian nation that has no reason to love the Iraqis. My Asian friend, who is no stranger to the murky world of intelligence operations, offered what help he could and gave me this advice: "Unless they are essential to your mission, do not make contact with the Kurdish, representatives in Lon- don and Paris. Both cities are swarming with AMN-AAM (Iraqi intelligence) agents. The Kurds are bound to be under surveillance and the Iraqis are a ruthless lot who will stop at nothing. Secondly, gain the confidence of your SAVAK contact, "NOT MUCH," Colby relied,. "but keep your head down. It' get- ting pretty mean out there." hat I already knew, When we met in London, M t rned out to be a bouncy little manj with' ruddy cheeks and bright blue yes, who shook his tightly furled u brel- la at passing taxis as if urging on a company of Assyrian levies ag inst some mountain fortress, as in eed he had in times past. Over a 1 nch4 of cold salmon and Sancerre a the Belfry Club, he had these reasur- ing words for me: "You'll have a jolly good time. But remember to break bread and eat salt with a Kurd just as soo as you can: Then he can't kill you. at only with your right hand and d 'n't point the soles of your feet tow rd anyone. I shouldn't worry about the Iraqis too much. They're dam ed bad shots or I wouldn't be ?al ve today, and no good at all in he mountains. About the only way t ey might hit you is if they're aimin at the chap next to you. Of cour e, with napalm and all that, one can e unlucky. And don't fall into th ir hands if you can avoid it; they st'll impale people. Funny you want to go there." In Paris as in London, I avoid ;d the Kurdish representative. But I, did call on a French friend w o knows the Middle East. "I'm going to Iraqi Kurdistan," I said over a kir on the BouleVard S. Germaine. "Then you are a fool," he replied, echoing a view expressed by tithe friends familiar with my plan "C'est- I 'ennui du Watergate?" "Perhaps." It was as good a reason as any t explain why an editor, fat and 45, thought he could find happiness dodging MIGs in the Zagros Mountains in the company of men but a step removed from brigandage. My flight from Paris arrived in Tehran, the Iranian capital, late on the sweltering night of July 3. At 8 a.m. the next morning, there was a light tap on my hotel door. I opened it to find a very small well-dressed Iranian, clean-shaven and wearing an enormous embossed ring on the little finger of his right hand. "I am Ceti. Fariborz," he an- ? CPYRGHT CPYRGHT 'nounced. Qvgg FigAgeleaseilinaggialaiclikrgPK379-01 are not ready to receive you. Per- haps next week." He hung up. I gave up and telephoned Gen. Fariborz. And that is how I came tet view the wonders of Isfahan and Shiraz, the oil refinery at Abadan, the computerized supertanker at Khark Island in the Persian Gulf, the lonely tomb of Cyrus the Great near Persepolis and the duck-haunt- ed waters of the Caspian Sea, all in the company of a genial and intelli- gent SAVAK officer. one?", I said that r was and invited him "You are going to Kurdistan?" he , inquired. I said that I hoped to. "Good. You have been wise to be honest with us. So many reporters . waste a great deal of time?theirs and ours?playing little games with us. But you cannot go immediately to Kurdistan." "And why not? ILE SHRUGGED his well-tailored shoulders. "It seems that Gen. Mae. Mus- tapha Barzani (the 7I-year-old Kur- dish nationalist leader) is not pre- pared to receive you at this time. He is away in the mountains. You can cross in a week or 10 days. Mean- while, why not see something of Iran? We will, of course, send some- one to accompany you." ? I knew that the worst thing I could do was to lose my temper. So I tried to explain quietly how impor- tant it was for me to get to Kurdis- tan immediately, that no staff correspondent of an American newspaper had managed to get to Kurdistan since the intensification of the fighting and that I wanted to be the first. "But I have explained: It is not in our hands. Barzani is not yet ready to receive you. Besides, is it so bad to see something of my country?" I promised Gen. Fariborz that I would think about it and let him know. "Do that, Mr. Hempstone," he said evenly. "It is the best course." I called on a friend at the Ameri- can Embassy for advice. "You've got to play it their way," he said. "There may be. a hundred reasons?some good, some bad? why SAVAK or the Kurds don't want you to cross over now. But you're in their hands and you won't make it without their help. So why not relax and enjoy it? This is, after all, the Middle East." - It seemed at least possible, how- ever, that if SAVAK would not help me unless I cooperated, at least they might not obstruct me if I tried to enter Kurdistan solely under Kurdish auspices. I called the number of the Kurd- ish agent in Tehran, Shaffiq Quaz- zaz. The line sounded as if someone were frying bacon on it. There were a number of suspicious clicks and bleeps, but no answer. On the eighth attempt, some six hours later, a man answered the phone. "Mr. Quazzaz?" I inquired. "No He is away. This is a friend." ? 'My name is Hempstone and I come from Mr. Dosky in Washing- ton." BACK IN TEHRAN a week later, I finally caught up with the elusive Mr. Quazzaz in a sleazy hotel off Pahlavi Avenue. I told him I expect- ed to cross the frontier in the company of my new-found Iranians friend in three days' time. ' "We will have someone there to meet you," he promised, giving me a letter of introduction to Idriss Barzani, the nationalist leader's third son and chief-of-staff. As I was leaving Quazzaz's hotel, a SAVAK underling I had seen once in Gen. Fariborz's company popped out from behind a potted palm, smiled and wished me a good morning. It was indeed the Middle East. From Rizaiyeh on the shores of Lake Urmia, near where the Turk- ish, Iraqi and Iranian frontiers meet, we drove in a southwesterly .direction over bone-jarring inoun- tain roads to the Iranian town of Khaneh, where we picked up a Kurdish liaison officer wearing the baggy-seated brown trousers gath- ered at the ankle that are the uni- form of the Pesh Merga (the 60,000- man Kurdish partisan force) and the red and white turban of the Barzani tribe. The Landrover groaned up over the Shinak Pass, past the Iranian fortifications and police post and rushed down the dirt mountain road to Haj Omran, the Kurdish cross- road where I said goodbye to my Iranian escorts. They eyed the ' armed Kurds uneasily and did not linger. Ahmed Hadji, a genial middle- aged Kurd with the bright blue eyes, bristling mustache and car- riage of a British sergeant-major, led me into a low stone building, leaned his Kalashnikov AK-47 Rus- sian assault rifle against the wall and ordered metal chairs, a table, cool water, English Craven A ciga- rettes and tea brought for me. Idriss, he said, was off directing the fighting. But he would receive me later, perhaps that very evening. Meanwhile, when I had fin- ished my tea, he, Ahmed Hadji, would take Me to a place where I could rest. I said I was ready and indeed I was: Having once known the agony lei4SiNagg44401QAT?ght horseback, I had taken the precau- tion of applying tincture of benzoin, a skin-toughener, to my backside, for a couple of weeks, the net effect of which had been to make my trousers stick to my skin. I strode purposefully into the courtyard toward a group of tether-- ed horses. But Ahmed Hadji waved me away with a depreciating ges- ture, threw his AK-47 on the front seat and indicated I was to get into an ancient yellow automobile with a Persian carpet on its floor, mud smeared on its roof by way of camouflage and its headlights dim- med by blue paint. And that is how I came to enter Kurdistan in a Mercedes-Benz rath- er than on a horse It had when all was said and done, taken some , doing. -- set- Chapter 3 By. Smith 1/Impstone , :iStsr?News Sttg.t Writer QA.t.A DIZEII, Iraqi KurdiStaii t/at'a vizen is Kurdistan's Guernica. But no Kurdish Picasso has emerg- ed to make of this raVaged town Oat once sheltered 25,000 people a Sym- bol of man's inhumanity to man, Like the Basque village of 7,000 people devastated by Nazi-Germa- ny's Condor Legion in the Spanish Civil War, Qal'a Dizeh had little military Importance. It nestles in the wheat fields and melon patches of the valley of the Lesser Zab - River, 13 miles from the Kanirash Pass that leads into Iran, and an equal distance from tile hirge -lake formed by the Iraqi-held Dukan Darn. . It is true that the headquarters of Itasso Mir IChan's Kawe Division is here, thaLa certain amount of rebel Military .traffic goes through the town; that there are Pesh Merga (Kurdish soldiers; literally, !'those who face death") in Qal'a Dizeh.. (Since this dispatch was written, Approved For Release 1999/09/02 : CIA-RDP79-01 t94Auuu1 u0540001-6 yvvei Fut Reiretw Iraqi arinored column tvith a heavy quent Iraqi aerial tactics ' %id loss of life.) But justatflhe Nazi allies of General Franco bombed Guernica . primarily because it contained the . ancient. oak tree' symbolic of the liberty sof the Basque people, the ? - Iraqi pilots and the Russian staff officers who plan their operations had a particuld' reason ? and one - - that was political rather than mili- tary ? . for Wanting, to wipe: Qal!da. Dizeh off the map. CPYRGHT 4 001 8 1999/09/02 . CIA-Rp1179-01194A0001005 S?lairn?ya eYes as notl have to- the StrtIgglet.`Ei tvill win their Baethists WI Of there is no middle way."' Despite the historic enrni- ty between non-Semitic non-Kurds, forcibly retir als, have Barzani. wh (2al'a Dizeh hanY8 s ormed by an th ar the. pattern of subse- -I'd AT AliOUT'i-P.-3i Ala,: the J WHEN THE UNEASY four-year, armed, truce between the Iraqi -Arabs and their Kurdish co- religionists broke down on March 11, the entire Kurdish faculty and stu- dent body of the university of Sulal- maniya, 30 Miles to the southeast Of here,' tobk, to the hills. They were d- joined here in Qal'a Dizeh by Kurd= ? ish students and professors from universities in Baghdad and Kirkuk. The students and their professors did not join the partisans of 71-year- old General Mulla Mustapha Barza- - ni, the Kurdish nationalist leader. 'But with a staff that included 23 ? 'Ph.D.s, 20 Masters and 30 13.A.s, the ..:+100 Kurdish students planned to con- di tinue their studies in the liberated d.tone, out of reach of Iraq's hated rul- -'1,:ing Baath party. This was something that in all the - Kurdish people's long struggle to be , free never had happened. In the four . previous Arab-Kurdish wars since 1961; Kurdish intellectuals, many of Whom had been heavily influenced d. 1)y Marxism, in the main had stood ! aloof from Barzani, a conservative, liti:Comniitnist tribal ieader whom most of them admired but did not entirely trust. :But now the Kurdish Democratic party, the mouthpiece of the urban KurdiSti' intellectuals, purged. of its . Communists by Barzaiii (wile is its ? president)- and KpB' secretary-d d-gen'etaf Habib Mohammed Kassim, wa"e.ge'lidly behind Barzank That the Russians since 1972 had been sup- plying Iraq with modern arms obvi- ously intended by the Baathists to be used against 'the Kurds ? made the decisiOn Of the' intellectuels easier.? . So'in striking 'Qal'a Dizeh, the seat of the university-in-exile, the Iraqis clearly intended to teach the intel- lectuals a lesson and to drive a wedge between. the 'DP's urban members and the Kurdish tribal fighting men. ANOTHER POSSIBLE reason for attacking Qal'a Dizeh, and one lends credence to, was that the town was jammed with * several thousand refdgees. These were mainly women and Children from Iraqi-held lowland areas who were, making for the Iranian sane4 ttiar on the other side of the Ramesh Pass. Fat the first six weeks , aftekL the breakdown of the.' truce on March 11, heavy spring rains kept all mili- tary activity, including , aerial attacks, at a load level. No Kurdish villages were attacked by air during thit period. The weather cleared in the third week of April and Qal'a Dizeh's fate was sealed. This is .how it was on the morning of April 24, 1974,, just two days short of the 39t1r - anniversary of the bohtbing of Guernica by the Nazis, as pieced, together from eye-witness reports: ' Spring is a time of ecstasy in Iraqi' Kurdistan, which has' boiling hot summers and,- brutally, cold winters.' With the end of the rains, Atiril 24 gave a promise of rebirth and pienitude,,..the wheat fields tossing In a Boit spring breeze, the sun getktle on the wild flowers and pale green wattle trees cloaking the banks of the Lesser lab as it meandered Its way down from the k in ou rita int and through the valley to Dukan Lake. In the marketplace it' wad: too earls/ for the peaches, apricots, plums and grapes, that are the small luxuries of this hard and poor land. But the vendors had put out clots of wild honey, coarse salt, piles of yellow spices, bars of homemade soap and sides of freshly slaughtered sheep and goats. The refugees and the townspeople, although it was well past 9 (the Kurds are notoriously late risers for Middle /Eastern- ers), were just finishing their breakfasts of yoghurt, rough gray bread and sweet tea. , Only a few students were catnapping in the two university dormitories, since classes were not due to start until the following week. bombers Came Irt at rdoftbp level from the west talong Qal'a Dizeh's main mos. Be- cause the Kurds are 'very short of antiaircraft guns, the town was totally unde- fended. Because It Was the first air raid of the war,' tni alit. trenches, or other shet- terg had been dug. It %dile, as ? they say, a piece of cake for the Iraqi pilots. . ? While the few Pesh Mea in Qal'a Dizeh fired their bolt-action Brno rifles at the jets, the Sukhois dumped Atheir bombs, scoring a di- ? feet hit on a primary school., another on the marketplace and a near-miss on the uni- ?versity, the concussion Of which buckled the steel doors and tore parts of the roofs off the two university dormitories, The bombers wheeled lazily around in the Sky and came in for a Sec- ond run, with the rising sun at their backs, sfraffing the toWn and the university ? -dormitories with high- .explosive rockets. It was all ?f`over, survivors say, in 'about three minutes, -? - , The Iraqi pilots flew ay to the west to riceive the congratulations of their Russian mentors at the Kir- kuk airbase. And the Kurds began the sad task of pull- ing the dead and wounded from the flattened build- ings. The toll was 131 killed and more than 300 wounded, Arthluding seven university ? gtudents and one professor. Most of the remainder of the casualties were women and children, since the majority Of the men were at the front The raPe of Qal'a DLteh? provoked a reaction among the Kurdish intellectuals who heretofore had been cool toward Barzani, but it Must not have been precise- ly what the Iraqis had in mind: On the day after the bombing, the student!: and their professors voted not to reopen the university until s the. war :was won, ? and : marched off to join the Pesh Merge. 4 "Qal'a Dizeh," Says Majib. Yutsif, a senior majoring In physics at the University Of "opened' my' lag else could nature of this' her the Kurds freedom or the- I exterminate ti-abs and the - kurds, a few neluding two d Iraqi genet-- one over to already had the support o Iraq's 150,000 Assyrian Ch istians and its 50,000 Yezi i "Devil-wor- shipers." This had broad- ened and de pened Barza- -ni's movemelttt from one for Kurdish auto omy to one for freedom .and 'emocracy for all Iraqis. MEANWI-kILE, there have been other Qal'a Dizehs since April 24, al- though 'none so costly. Halabja has been partially flattened, R nia has been heavily damaged, Zakho is a burned-ou shell. In all, the Kurds s y, 80 big vil- lages and ore than 400 hamlets hay been destroy- ed or heavily damaged. Columns of refugees have been straf fed and crops na- palmed. Lac Ing other tar- gets, the Iraqi Migs, Suk- hois and even Tupolev-22s, the most advanced Russian , supersonic lornber, have ' attacked floc ids of sheep and herds of catt e. The Iraqi objective, the Kurds say (a 'td their intelli- gence is exce lent),.is clear: to make a wasteland out of Kurdistan, to terrorize civil- ians, to turn them against Barzani's I adership to threaten the with starva- tion this wijiter when the passes from ran are block- ed with sno and there is nothing to replace the burn- ed- crops and the slaughter- ed animals. ? "If this is says Idriss nationalist le not genocide," Barzani, the ader's son and chief-of-staff, ?it will do until a better example comes along." But the 1..I deaf ear tonited Nations has turned Kurdish chtes of geno- cide, although the bombing goes on aro nd the clock, . night and da. Since Qal'a -Dizeh, the Kurds know Isthat to expect ancl arc a tittle beats s- Approved For Release 1999/09/02 : CIA-RDP79-01194A000100540001L6 CPYRGHT Approved pared. Whole villages have moved into the caves that honeycomb these rugged mountains, an estimated 250,000 people having been made homeless by the war, 73,000 of whom have fled to Iran. The peasants carry on their lives as best they can,. coming down into the plains to harvest their crops by the light of full moons. THE KURDS simply 416 not have enough antiair- craft guns to .defend the civilian population. The few. Dushka 12.7mm antiair- craft_ machine guns and - Hispano Suiza 30mm can- non that they have must be., concentrated to defend Barzani's headquarters and that of the KDP, the Haj Omran-Chouman road that is Kurdistan's principal life- line to Iran and the outside world, and the troops at the front., And these weapons are of such small caliber that, even when they are emplaced on 9,000-foot peaks, the Iraqi aircraft can /ZAP swIthl u Flaw o 2 from high altitudes. The civilian population's only -real defenses are dis- persal, the caves and Slit trenches, supplemented by a primitive but ingenious "early-warning system": sentries with the sharpest eyes and the keenest ears., are posted on the mountain' peaks. At the approach of Iraqi planes, the first sentry to spot them fires a rifle ...shot, which is repeated by , other sentries as the planes move within their ken. - "The Kurds have no friends," a Kurdish saying goes, and that has been about the size of it for the past 4,000 years. Since the recent series of five wars began in 1961, only Iran and possibly some of the Persian Gulf emirates and Israel (which isnot unmindful of the fact that the lairds are tying down six of Iran's eight divisions, half of Baghdad's '2,000 tanks and most of its air force) have given Barzani any assistanc - ciAlr )P IM:OsliliPift? ?Li 1914FWel rb the Soviet Union, and that is who we are fighting. The Russians send the Baathists advisers, '-aircraft, tanks, artillery, boinbs, napalm, even poison gas, although the Iraqis ehave_not used this yet. Yet America will not send us a single cartridge to help us 1.-defend our homes, not atoll ,;..of bandages to bind the wounds of our: women and .-little children: .'.'.?Go away,' your State Department says to our emissaries, 'and die quiet- ly: this is not our affair.' But does your President so love the Russians that he will allow them to butcher a small nation that would be your friend? If this is so, then we have only God and our mountains to protect us." But neither God nor the mountains had been atle to save Qal'a Dizeh any more ? than the Basques' tree of liberty had been able to shelter Guernica. Tomorrow: To the Duken front exception of Iranian hu- trianitarian assistance to the 73,000 Kurdish refugees on her soil, has been both small and clandestine. Because of the huge amount of Russian .military ? aid to the Baathist govern- ment in Baghdad, the ab- sence of any American help to-the Kurds is a particular- ly sore point with Idriss ?;Barzani and his father. Says Idriss: ASKEEParor Araeri- acan help as long as 10 years and to this day we have had no answer. Ten years is a long time to wait for an e answer. The doors of American embassies are open_to all other, people of -'the sworld, but they are - closed to Kurds: `Go away,' they say, 'you are Ira,qis and we cannot help you: "We can defeat this re:-. .pressive, anti-American Iraqi -regime, as we have always done before. But we Washington Stariltws Tuesday, September 3, 1974 a CPYRGHT By Smith Hempstone Star-News Staff Writer NITRGAII, Iraqi Kurdistan ? In a post-mictnignt tam, wmle we sipped tea and squatted cross-legged on carpets in his sand-bagged tent, Idriss Barzani, the Kurdish leader's third son, chief of staff and possible political heir, gave me leave to pass to Hasso Mir Khan's Kawe Division guarding the Dukan front. To be my personal bodyguard, he gave me Ahmed Saids from his own retinue. "This kak's (respected older brother's) life is your life," Idriss told Ahmed, and from the serious look on Ahmed's face, I gathered that .the injunction was something more than rhetoric. And so it was that we passed through Haj Omran with Yacub, a Nestorian Christian whiskey smug- gler from Kirkuk, at the wheel of the Jeep, and along the Iranian bor- der by the rushing waters of the Lesser Zab, past fields of sunflow- ers, winnowed. wheat and ri_penin_g Approved For Rel CPYRGHT melons, to Sardasht, then across the throat-tightening Kanirash Pass and down into bomb-scarred Qal'a. Dizeh, a ghost town that once had 25,000 inhabitants and now has 5,000., WHILE YACUB went in search of 'lasso. we sat in his garden and I questioned Ahmed through Moham- med Ter, the Erbil secondary school headmaster who had joined the Pesh Merga and was my interpret- er. Ahmed is 45 years old, stands about 5'5" and has an outsized leo- nine head that would be in propor- tion on a man more than six feet tall. He looks like the actor Anthony Quinn, has several missing teeth and .a number of gold ones of which he is inordinately proud, and a deep, gravelly laugh that begins in the neighborhood of his blue-and- white cummerbund and erupts from his barrel chest like a mountain freshet. P2S (he concedes with a chuckle) of 21. Between them, they have given him , seven sons and six daughters. He hoped to have 21 children before he is through ? a program that he al- leges has the enthusiastic support of the two Mrs. Ahmeds ? but he admits that he may have to take a third young wife in his declining years to achieve this objective. Ahmed, a Barzani tribesman, was with the General at the lVfahabad uprising as a boy of 16. He has more than compensated for his personal population explosion by killing be- tween 60 and 70 men. These are the ones, he says, "whose faces he has seen." He has wounded many others, and some of these may have died of their wounds. He bears the white crease of a bullet on his chest. and has another wound in his left leg. He has a fund of stories mostly involving war, tribal feuds and his years in Iraqi jails and exile. He is a very funny and gentle man. He has a wife of 35, and another Basso Mir Khan, who fought be- I ciA_RnP7q_n1 IclaAnnni nnsannni-R CPYRGHT side tsarzanlitRIAMACklit9r9Rele4Pitni PegR(192.18?Eit WrRYRZ3tililagft32911F4g2Pki, -sL1 g;ven, all tart and followed the General on his epic 52-day march across Iran, Iraq and I Turkey, ending with an 11-year exile in the Soviet Union, came swaggering in about dusk. pelt, a cloud of dust pluming out behind us. But there were no Migs (it was a Friday, and perhaps the Iraqi pilots_ were enjoying tne Moslem sabbath) and in due course we reached the, village of Khoshaw, a mean. place set in dusty wattle trees. (Khoshaw now is in Iraqi hands). There I left my pack after Ahmed had told the headman in gory detail what would happen to him if so much as a thread of it were damages, or a sock stolen from it. Ahmed's reputation as a killer of men obviously had preceded him, and the headman swore that he ? would guard the pack as if it were his wife's honor, a turn of phrase that provoked a remark' from Ahmed that set the entire village into laughter. After a draught of cool water from the vil- lage spring, we boarded two ?balems and, hugging the east shore of the reservoir, wound our way under rocky , cliffs to a small, flinty cove where we debarked. The face of the cliff was nearly sheer and its height about 300 feet, which for a 95- year-old Sunday doubles player proved to be a little too much. I was well winded . by the time we reached the top? where carpets had been spread for us by refugees living in caves, and tea, served in three-ounce glasses and sickly sweet, was offered us. Mercifully, mules were produced for Yussif Hamad and myself, raw-boned, spindly-shanked beasts with mouths like iron. I started to mount from the left, in the American fash- ion, but Ahmed tut-tutted me around to the other side and, there being no stirrups, gave me a leg up. The Kurds, being good Mos- lems, regard the left as un- clean, knot their turbans on the right, step off on the right foot and mount their horses and mules from the right. Christian I might be, he muttered, but as Idriss" honored guest I might as well learn proper behavior. As we rode off into the foothills, Ahmed, perhaps to make up for his sternness on matters theological, scampered into a vineyard and returned to hand me a huge bunch of grapes, some and delicioils. THE PA up the 4,000- foot mount in, over which all of the f urth battalion's food, water nd ammunition must pass in the backs of men or th se of the four mules assig ed to it, is nar- row,- steep nd precipitous. The angle, as so steep that, without sti rups, one could only cling d sperately to the pommel an apply as much knee and thigh pressure as a wide freig t saddle would permit. It t ok more than an hour to reac the top, where perhaps th world's finest mountain tr ops, the Kurd- ish Pesh erga (literally, "those wh face death") stared do a like gaunt wolves from the crags at the hated Iraqi While we waited in the battalion C for the men on foot to cat h up with us, Yussif told e his problems. The Iraqis at times had massed as many as 175 tanks against him. He had no anti-tan guns, but had managed to knock out four with mines He had one anti-aircraft gun, an obso." lete" Dushk 12.7mm, ma- chine gun that had succeed- ed in dam ging one Iraqi Mig. The ase plate was cracked an the firing pin broken on hi most powerful artillery pi ce, a 122mm mortar. Ne t to that, the biggest gun he had was an 82.nm Russian mortar, and of these he ad only one. , That he ha to defend two . mountain r nges 12 miles apart with 50 Pesh Merge and 500 trib 1 irregulars did not concern im unduly. The Iraqis wer cowards, he said, and, regrettably, never attac ed him. But it was frustra ing not to have the weapons to go down into the plains nd destroy the Dukan gars son. "Send me just one ant -tank gun from America, jut one. Kak, and _ I will be your slave," Yussif asserted. A SHORT MAN with a bristling mustache, a twinkle in his eye and a ? chest like a pouter pigeon, Hasso commands 2,000 Pesh Merga and 1,500 tribal irregulars. But 150 of the latter lack rifles. Hasso, * who has been in charge of this sector for eight years, is ' faced with the 12,000 troops of the Iraqi III Division that guard the Dukan Dam. (Since this dispatch was written, an Iraqi armored column has broken through and taken Qal'a Dizeh with a heavy loss of life.) We dined by the light of a kerosene lantern in Hasso's, garden. There was roast chicken, bits of fried lamb, mounds of rice, bowls of tomato gravy, rice wrapped in grape leaves, dishes of finely ground salad cooled by ice cut from the moun- tains in winter, and a foot- high stack of rough, grey bread in thin loaves the size Of dinner plates, all washed down with mastow, a mix- ture of water and yoghurt ? made from sheep's milk. We washed our hands when we had eaten our fill from the common bowls and sat cross-legged on carpets Under the stars while Hasso waved his guards to the table to deal with the re- mains of the feast. Hasso, who says he is 43 but looks older, said he had not enjoyed his stay in the ' Soviet Union. The Kurds had been -conscripted into the Red Army for a year, then put to work and not al-, lowed to move about freely. Hasso had learned Russian and read Tolstoi, Chekov and Turgenev; also Solz- henitsyn. Solzhenitsyn, Hasso said, had written truly of the nature of Stalin's dictatorship. The Russians, he added, were not a hospitable people. Yes, Hasso said, he knew I had Idriss' firman to see whom and what I wished. The Dukan front I would find interesting. If he had one big gun and the orders to destroy the dam, he could flood Baghdad. He would send me within the hour to Yussif Hamad's fourth bat- IT WAS BETTER to travel at night because of the Iraqi Migs and Sukhois. They were bombing and strafing all the time. As an escort, he would give me his own nephew, Nuri Sulei- man, and five red-turban- ned Barzani fighting men. We lurched off into the night in a wheezing land Rover with no superstruc- ture, the top halves of its headlights painted blue to reduce their visibility from the air. After an hour over a rough track, we reached the banks of the Lesser Zab, where it makes a great bend to flow southward to form, behind the Iraqi-held Dukan Dam, a lake 20 miles long and perhaps four wide. In a few minutes, a 15-foot wooden boat called a balem, its outboard motor cut, glided silently out of the shadows and into the muddy shore and we climbed aboard for the half-mile trip ?to the other bank. On the other bank another Landrover, in even more atrocious condition than the first, was waiting for us, with Nuri Suleiman at the wheel. It was not until well past midnight that we reached ,Mirgah, a substantial vil- lage of stone-and-mud houses through and around which flowed a number of streams. The houses were terraced so that the door of. one opened out onto the roof of another. Sentries having been posted, I unrolled my sleeping bag and fell quick- ly asleep on the flat roof of Mirgah's principal home. The next morning, Yussif Hamad, the fourth battalion commander, who is even shorter and burlier - than Hasso, joined us at a break- fast of boiled bits of goat, onions, bread and watered yoghurt. It was a five-hour march to the base of /the mountain overlooking the ?Dukan Dam, so, he said, perhaps it would be best to take a chance and cross the plain by Land Rover and approach the mountain by balem. I thought I detected a look of apprehension on Ahmed's face, but he re- mained silent. WE DROVE for more than an hour over a treeless We lunch chickpea so of the occ Iraqi co through ti Baghdad b eat smuggl tive of the move at wi darkness t war, smug d on bread and p and, in honor sion, a box of kies carried e lines from some whimsi- ie (it is indica- urds' ability to 1 under cover of at, despite the ling to and from Approved For Release 1999/09/02 : CIA-RDP79-01194A000100540001-6 CPYRGHT Iraq accountsARMIMIMPta F ("I &hi/1PN rileMPalWri"C I AstiPTATli 1 UMW? 9YPaggil gys ago). of liberated Kurdistan's total trade). In the afternoon, I watch- ed through Yussif's binocu- lars while the 82mm shelled the Iraqi garrison. There are no such luxuries as field ' telephones, and range cor- rections were shouted down ' to the gun crew 100 yards below us. Every round hit within the fort's walls, send- ing two Russian T-54 tanks parked outside it into action. Since a mule can carry ' only four rounds of 82mm ammunition, we fired only eight rounds and hurried back down from the crest. By the time the Iraqi tanks and guns began returning our fire, we were safely napping on the, reverse slope. IN THE AFTERNOON, we walked down the moun- boats were to meet us. Since they were not there, those of us who could swim (which seemed to include about a third of the Kurds) stripped and threw ourselves into the cooling waters of the lake. Ahmed stripped to the paja- ma bottoms that all older Kurds wear as underwear and, with a blood-curdling yell, did a magnificent belly-flop into the lake. When an hour had passed and our boats hd not come, we hailed a passing balem that leaked prodigiously. Leaving half of our retinue to make their own way home, we, with two men bailing constantly, just made it back to Khoshaw. There we said goodbye to Yussif, since it was our plan to go all the way to the Qal'a Dizeh shore by boat, thus avoiding the finery and rip. We left at dark. An hour, later, the wind through the gorge began to howl and we had begun to ship water over the bow. The boatman said he could not make the turn into the gorge without swamping us, so he was putting into shore. We waded ashore in the pitch dark somewhere between the gorge and Mirgah and sat down in a melon patch to decide what to do. Finally, we stumbled five miles in the dark until we set to barking the big, crop- eared sheep dogs of Mamandana, a /village where we rested on the roof of the headman's house while his women, saucily unveiled and dressed in bright colors as all Kurdish women are, brought us cool melon fritarl eggs yoghurt and tea. (Mamandana al Eventually, another Land Rover turned up, the wind died down and we found a ' boatman willing to take us over to the Qal'a Dizeh shore where Yacub had been waiting for us in the Jeep. It was 1:30 a.m. before we staggered into Hasso Mir Khan's compound and fell alseep on his lawn. Next, I decided, I would ask Idriss' leave to pass to his cousin, Sheikh Abdullah, who commanded the Ager ("Fire") Division defend- ing Barzan, the heart of the. Kurdish rebellion. That meant a chance for Ahmed to see his two eldest sons, serving in the Pesh Merga there, and to visit the ? home he had not seen since March. And so it was agreed. TOMORROW: Barzan: Thc Ll n' CPYRGHT By Smith Hempstone Star-News Staff Writer BARZAN, Iraqi Kurdistan ? My motives tor wanting to visit 13arzan were several: It seemed important that I see the homeland of the war- like tribe that was the heart of the Kurdish rebellion. There was always the chance that there I might run across General Mulla Mustapha Barzani, the 7I-year-old rebel leader. I wanted to meet his second son, Luqman, who had taken over the day-to-day leader- ship of the Barzani tribe. And there was always the possibility that there might be heavy fighting there. Although Barzan was only a day's drive to the north over one of Kurdistan's three roads, this trip, like all others, had to be personally approved by Idriss Barzani, the general's third son and chief of staff. Like other meetings with Idriss, who at 30 looks like a young- er edition of King Hussein of Jor- dan, this one took place late at night at a different location from the previous one. On three of the four counts, Idriss was discouraging: He did not know where his father was, but he was not in Barzan; Luqman was six days' mule-ride from Barzan, somewhere near the Turkish fron- tier; there had been no reports of heavy fighting in Barzan. But if I wished to go, I could do so, and he would give me a letter of introduc- tion to Sheikh Abdullah, his first cousin and the commander of the Ager ("Fire") Division guarding the western approaches to Barzan. And so it was that the-four of us ? Syamand, my interpreter, ,Yacub, the Assyrian Christian driver of the Jeep, Ahmed Saids, my Barzan bodyguard, and I ? left at 8:30 the following morning for Barzan. The red-turbanned Ahmed Saids was in high spirits: The visit to Barzan would give him his first chance since the fighting began in March to see his home in Spindar and his two sons there, Hassan and Khalil. WE PASSED by way of Galala over George's Road, built by a sin- gle Assyrian Christian bulldozer operator in the lull between the 1970 fighting and the present war, to give the Kurds an access route to Barzan not exposed to direct fire from the Iraqi fortress of Spilak. As the crow flies, the diatance from Chouman to Barzan is no more than 80 miles. But the road crosses such rugged mountain country that the distance is at least twice that far, and the trip cannot be done in less than seven hours. George's Road had been heavily bombed and it was pock-marked with bomb craters. Burned-out Landrovers and Jeeps, their bodies twisted into surrealistic shapes by Iraqi rockets, stood like warning mileposts along its verges. The mountains through which George's Road twisted and turned were blackened with napalm. The Chris- tian villages tucked into their folds, once famous for their wine-making, were abandoned and silent, their inhabitants having taken shelter from the air raids in the caves of the Barodosti Mountains. Yacub drove as fast as the road's bad condition would permit, a plume of red dust billowing out be- hind the Jeep, while the rest of us kept an eye out for MIGs. We made good time and by one o'clock had reached Spindar, Ahmed's yillage just inside the Approved For Release 1999/09/02 : CIA-RDP79-01194A000100540001-6 Approved For marches of Barzan, each ot whose 75 inhabitants was in some way related to him. Of his immediate family, only Khalil and Hassan were still in Spindar, his wives and his other 11 children having accom- panied him to Haj Orman where he was attached to Idriss' personal retinue. LIKE MOST Kurdish homes, Ahmed's single-storied, flat-roofed house of mud, stone and wattle con- tained no furniture. So we sat cross-legged on mattresses brought to the porch on the shady side of the building. Ahmed said that until 1969, when the Iraqis had managed to seize Barzan, Spindar had boasted a great chestnut tree, "the like of which was unknown throughout all. Kurdistan, and perhaps the world," When they had been forced to evacuate the village, the Iraqis had poured gasoline on the chest- nut tree and set it aflame, depriv- ing the village of an important source of food during the winter months. As we talked on the porch, the men of the village, ranging in age from 12 to 70, gathered to hear Ahmed's news and to view his visi- tor. Although Kurdish women go unveiled, they stay out of the way of strangers, and neither in Spin- dar nor anywhere else did they share a meal with us. Having lunched on a meal of mastow (watered yoghurt), fruit and bread, dispatched a teen-aged nephew to the market for news of Luqman Barzani's whereabouts (there was none) and left a bottle of beer in the village spring to cool against our return, we left for the Valley of Barzan, following George's Road in a generally northwesterly direction along the ridgelines, skirting sheer drops into g?es hundreds of feet below. There were, Aluted said, many great caves in the mountains of Barzan, where one could walk for hours without reaching the end. And in these mountains were bears, wolves, mountain goats, wild boars and red-legged partridges, al- though all were fewer than in his youth, because everyone was armed and the people were hungry. The mountain goats had been al- most wiped out, but Barzani had ordered that they no longer be kill- ed, and they were comine back; but a bounty was still paid for the skins of wolves, which caused much damage to the flocks. CRESTING A RIDGE, there spread out beneath us the Valley of Barzan, protected on all sides by mountain ramparts and through it Release 1999/09/02 : CIA-RDP79-0 flowing the twistmt Greater . Looking down upon this green and pleasant land, studded by oak trees, it was easy to understand why MuIla Mustapha Barzani, his family and his retainers had been willing to fight for it. Having rattled down the moun- tain road to the floor of the valley, Ahmed and I were swimming at dusk beside a bombed-out bridge over the Rukuchuk River, a tribu- ? tary of the Greater Zab, when Sheikh Abdullah, a shortish, blue- ? eyed man with fair ,skin and a gin- gery little mustache, presented himself. It was dangerous, he said, to swim so close to the bridge, which the Iraqi airplanes still at- tacked from time to time. And would we not join him for dinner? Sheikh Abdullah's house stood in the middle of the village of Barzan, and we dined in its garden, along with some 20 of his retainers. And there began the familiar business of attempting to dissuade me from proceeding farther in the direction of the front: The Iraqi air and artil- lery had been very active, there was no bridge or ford across the Greater Zab, the land mines had not been cleared from the crest of the Pins Mountains to the west, which his battalions were holding. I thanked Sheikh Abdullah for his concern, but said that, inshallah (God willing), I would sleep the fol- lowing night upon the crest of the Pins. Inshallah, Sheikh Abdullah replied somewhat doubtfully, and showed us to the roof of the build- ing where we were to sleep. At breakfast, Sheikh Abdullah confirmed that Lugman Barzani was wandering in the mountains near the Turkish fronLer and could not be reached. He said he was sure I would not want to leave for the Phis front before seeing Barza- ni's home, visiting the mosque and looking in on the hospital. It being but 7 a.m. and protocol demanding agreement, I said I would see these things and then, inshallah, leave for Pins. BARZANI'S HOME has been razed to its foundations 14 times over the years' by the Iraqis', and the present structure is remark- able only in that it is three stories high and of concrete, with a fine view out over the village to the val- ley and the river. Having seen this, the mosque and the hospital (all of whose patients were civilians), I pointed out to Sheikh Abdullah that the tempera- ture was rising and that I was eager to leave for the Pins. The mules, Sheikh Abdullah replied, had not yet been found and he had invited a number of notables to a lunch in my honor. Surely I would not disappoint him? Syamand, the CRYFkGHt 1194A000100540001-6 "0 interpreter, whispered that I idarei . not refuse, so I accepted with the? best grace possible, which I fear was not very much. There followed a three-hour during which the temperature into the high 90s. The flies hi insistently over bowls of m and mounds of rice and the eal rose ' zzed tton ?ta- bles and I stared at each oth r in silence. Sheikh Abdullah observed t at it was very warm. Since all f us were sweating profusely, it se med pointless to disagree. In that ase, ? asked Sheikh Abdullah, wh not rest during the heat of the da and ride up to the Pins in the cdol of the evening? This was a bi too ? much: I told the quaking Sy mad to inform Sheikh Abdullah th t, by my eyes, I would leave that very minute for the Pins, with or ith- put him, mules or no mules. Sheikh Abdullah nodded and smiled sWeet- ly: Of course we would go; he had not realized I was in such a hurry, MIRACULOUSLY, a raft, rickety wooden platform set n six innertubes and propelled by sin- gle oarsman, was waiting a the Zab. Even more remarkably two mules were grazing on the west bank, with the promise of the hree more we needed (since the divi- sion's doctor was to accompa y us t6 the front) at the next villa.g At that village, which we re ched after a half-hour's climb, a wi man, apologizing that she had no hing better to offer us, brought us cool bowl of buttermilk from whi bh we drank in turn. With the air o one who has known better times she said she was from the Irania side of the border, but had "grow old in this place." Here Sheikh Abdullah mad his apologies for not accompanyi g us to the top of the mountain, an4 said he hoped on our return we sfrould have a swim at his headquart rs on the banks of the Rukuchuk. That was, I knew by now,, as m ch a command as an invitation. The mule track followed a idge, dipping down from time to ti into gorges where it was incredibl hot. No birds sang, and the only ound was the "hatchas" of the mul tears urging on our mounts. More than three hours pass ;d be- fore, at a turning in the Ira 1, we came upon Gazi Haj Melo, the dark, taciturn and thrice-wo nded commander of the battalion ard- ing the Pins Pass. From the pass, which we re ched in another half-hour, we couli see the abandoned town of Am dan, the Berat Hills held by a K rdish skirmish line and the interlocking system of nine strong Iraqi fOrts to the north of them. There had been CPYRGHT ppro or Kci reports, Gazi Haj said, of an Iraqi tank build-up, and the leaders of the fash, the Kurdish mercenaries fighting on the side. of the govern- n-ient, had been summoned to Bagh- dad, so it would not be surprising if there were an Iraqi attempt to break through to the Valley of Bar- zan. Gazi Haj said his instructions. were that he and his men were to die there rather than yield a foot, and he had no doubts as to his men's ability to hold the pass. All leaves had been canceled and Sheikh Abdullah could easily more than double within 24 hours the size of the 6,000-man Ager Division by calling the red-turbanned Barzanis away from their harvesting and threshing. AS NIGHT FELL, we made Our- selves comfortable on the 15-foot- wide rock shelf above a sheer, 3,000-foot drop to the valley of the Zab that was Gazi Haj's headquar- ters. "It is your bad luck," he said, "that there is no fighting; but at least there is meat for dinner." While small arms fire crackled and popped from the picket lines in the Berat Hills, we talked into the ? IA RDP79 01 night. The substance was`the same' as on previous visits to the front: the need for anti-tank and anti-air- craft guns, the attitude of the West in general and America in particu- lar toward the Kurdish cause. "When a few hundred Greeks and Turks are killed on Cyprus," Gazi Haj said bitterly, "there is an uproar. But if we all die here, the world does not care." Since I was due back in Haj Omran the following dy for a tenta- tive interview with the elusive General Barzani, we said goodbye to Gazi Haj at dawn and sent the mules on ahead. It-was fine walk- ing down the mountain in the cool of the morning to the village of the Iranian woman, where we break- fasted on yoghurt, bread and tea. ' At the bottom of the mountain, on the west bank of the Greater Zab, there were refugees and their flocks waiting to pass over. Their homes on the west slope of the Finis had been destroyed by Iraqi air strikes that they sensed were a pre- lude to the expected offensive The river was swift-flowing but inviting and, leaving my clothes for the others to bring over on the raft, I wailed In dud struck out the 'oppo40001 site Phore,q)eing carRed by ' the current to a spot a half-mile 'below where I had gone in. As I pulled myself from the water; cooled by the snows of Turkey, r could see time-fused artillery shells bursting above the crest of the Phis. Yacub rescued the Jeep from the depression where he had left it camouflaged with branches and we lurched off to Sheikh Abdullah's headquarters, a leafy bower by the banks of the Rukuchuk, where be was busily decoding a message from Idriss to all 17 division com- manders: An Iraqi offensive was expected when the moon was full the following week. After a swim and tea?and refus- ing yet another invitation to lunch from the remorseless Sheikh Abdullah?we said our farewells and headed back down George's Road toward Chouman. On the way, we passed a convoy of battered Landrovers loaded with Pesh Merga heading in the direc- tion of the Valley of Barzan. It was clear where Idriss thought the Iraqi offensive would come. Tomorrow: The quest for Balza- ni. CPYRGHT By Smith Hempstone Star-News Staff Writer HAJ OMRAN, Iraqi Kurdistan in wastungton oack in June, Mohammed Rahman, a former Iraqi cabinet minister and a mem- ber of the seven-man ruling politbu- ro of the Kurdish Democratic Party, had assured me that I would have an interview in rebel Kurdis- tan with General Mulla Mustapha Barzani, the 71-year-old father of Kurdish nationalism. This is the last in a series of six articles on the war between the Iraqi government and its 2.5 million Kurdish minority ? "The War No- body Knows." When I had been delayed for 12 days in Iran enroute to the liberated zone of Kurdistan, the reason given by both the Iranians and the Kurds had been that Barzani was travel-. ing among his people and hence was not prepared to receive me. So when I finally was allowed to cross into Kurdistan, it was on the not unnatural assumption that Barzani was prepared to see me. But things are never quite what they seem in the Middle East, and all assumptions are dangerous. After each of five trips to the front, I sought a meeting with Idriss Barzani, the general's principal aide, to inquire about my interview With his father. Each time the an- swer was the same: I was not to worry I would see Barzani, but only in Haj Omran, his headquar- ters. He was traveling in the coun- tryside and could not be reached. Finally, an appointment was made for the day before I was scheduled to return to Iran, I re- turned dusty and exhausted from the Betwatae front to be sum- moned to a midnight meeting with Idriss. His father, he said with some evident embarrassment, had not re- turned. He was expected within three days. Would I extend my stay? For a number of reasons, this was extremely inconvenient, and I let Idriss know that it was. Could he guarantee an interview at the end of the three days? CPYRGHT Idriss hesitated tor a moment, fidgeting with the :not of his tur- ban. He looked very tired. Nothing in life, he finally replied, was cer- tain; he could only say that he would try. I WAS TEMPTED to call the whole thing off and return to Iran. But coming to Kurdistan in 1974 and not seeing Barzani would be like visiting revolutionary America in 1779 and failing to see George Wash- ington. I said that I would stay, but only for three days. With the corning of the full moon,- the Iraqi air raids on the headquar- ters area intensified, there was no news of my interview and I began to fear that Barzani's advisors had made him hole up somewhere in the mountains. On the morning of the third day, I began to stuff my things into my pack and to distribute presents to those who had been my companions during my stay in Kurdistan. In mid-afternoon, 10 minutes before my scheduled departure for Iran, the word came. I would see Barzani that night. Just as the moon rose, a car came Approved For Reler,cc 1999/09/02 : CIA RDP79 01194A000100640001 6 CPYR G HT Approved For Release .1999/09/02 : CIA-RDP79-01194A000100540001-b there were three assassination at- tempts on Barzani between 1970 and 1973, and the Iraqis are said to have placed a price of $2 million on his head the short trip to the Gener- al's headquarters was made in three stages. At each, there was an identity check, a change in vehicles and retinue, and an inspection of the presents I brought for the Gen- eral, Idriss and Mas'oud, his fourth son and head of the Kurdish mili- tary intelligence. The last few miles of the journey were at a hair-raising speed over a twisting mountain road in a totally blacked-out Landrover. At the end of the road, we reached a single- story and well-sandbagged concrete building surrounded by anti-aircraft guns and bunkers. Clusters of armed men stood in the shadows of the building, talking softly. MAS'OUD, who is a carbon copy of his better-known older brother, greeted me on the steps and led me into a room lighted by two flicker- ing kerosene lanterns, where we were met by Idriss. A few minutes later, we were joined by Dr. Mah- moud Osman, a little man with a Charlie Chaplin mustache who is a legendary figure in Kurdistan. In the Kurdish wars of the 1960s, Mahmoud, a member of the KDP politburo, was the only physician the rebels had (now they have near- ly 100). He operated on casualties by day and ran the civilian adminis- tration by night. Mahmoud enjoys immense pres- tige and not a little power by virtue of his ?role as Barzani's personal physician, political. advisor, English interpreter and constant companion ("Find Dr. Mahmoud," I had been told, "and you will find Barzani."). He could well emerge ? if Idriss does not ? as the dominant force in,, -the collective leadership that al- most certainly will take over the Kurdish movement when Barzani dies or is killed. The four of us had barely -seated ourselves in aluminum-and-plastic lawn chairs when Barzani appear- ed. His two sons departed, leaving me alone with the general and Dr.. Mahmoud. The General wore a faded red- and-white Barzani turban, some- what carelessly tied, the brown jacket without insignia and baggy trousers gathered at the ankle that are the uniform of the Kurdish rebels, and unlaced black shoes. In his intricately knotted blue waist sash nestled a foot-long curved dag- ger with a wooden handle. BARZANI IS tall for a Kurd ? he is about 5-foot-8, has piercing brown SlanKuy ycLLuw, and a pwud- nent nose. He walks a little stiffly, but has a firm handshake. Although he is less well known, Barzani must rank with Mao Tse- tung, Tito and General Giap as one of the world's foremost guerrilla leaders. He was first imprisoned at the age of one (with his mother) when his elder brother-was hanged by the Turks for nationalist activi- ty. His rebellions against the British and the Iraqis were annual rites of spring in the 1930s and 1940s. ? In 1946, Barzani crossed into Iran with 2,000 followers to fight for the Soviet-sponsored Kurdish Mahabad republic. When the Russians with- & drew, the republic collapsed and its leaders were executed by the Ira- nians. Pursued by Iranian, Iraqi, , British and Turkish troops, Barzani sent his women and children into the mountains and began an epic 52- day march with 500 picked follow- ers. The march ended with the swimming of the Araxes River and an 11-year exile in the Soviet Union for Barzani and his men. When the British-sponsored Iraqi monarchy was overthrown in 1958, Barzani and his followers were , invited to return by the new govern- ment in Baghdad. Remarkably ? given the fact that their long stay in the Soviet Union had made the Kurds vehemently ant-Communist ? the Russians agreed. Three years later, in 1961, the .first of the five recent wars for Kurdish autonomy broke out., And Barzani has been almost constantly in the field since that date. Although Mulla Mustapha Barza- ni's family for generations has been the religious and political ruler of Barzan, membership in such fami- lies, because they are so large, is no guarantee of prominence. As a hot- 'headed, teen-aged third son, Barza- ? ni began his career with no more than 20 rifles at his command. 'Through strength of character, mill- . ? tary ability and political skill, he is now president of the 50,000-member Kurdish Democratic Party and 'commander of 100,000 armed men. BARZANI BEGAN our two-hour talk by emphasizing that his quarrel was not with the Iraqi Arabs but with the Baathist government in Baghdad. "Our struggle," he said, "is not for Kurds alone but for all the peo- ple of Iraq. We seek only an autono- mous Kurdistan within a democrat- ic-Iraq." The Baathists, who are allied both with the Soviet Union and with the Iraqi Communist party, he de- scribed as "scorpions, serpents, wolves" who have executed and tor- tured to death more than 10,000 ? Iraqis In the six years since they ? seized power in Baghdad. No negotiated peace was possible with such a regime, he sai , if only because the Baathists time and again had demonstrated faith, "Either we will hay and the government in Bag fall, or they will destroy said, puffing vigorously on carved briar pipe (on D moud's orders, he has give hand-rolled cigarettes of 11 ish tobacco that everyone here). Barzani mentioned Israe Jordan, Kuwait and Saud as Middle Eastern states n unsympathetic to the aspir the Kurds. But he said that "practical help" he was r was from Iran, which has a quarrel with Iraq. eir bad victory dad will us," he. a hand- . Mah- up the t Kurd- smokes . Egypt, Arabia t totally tions of he only ceiving running - "IF THE United State would only hint to its Middle astern friends that you would like o see us helped, perhaps they coul get up their courage to do it," he a ded. "I simply cannot believe, 'Barza- ni said, "that the. America people will sit by while a vicious, worthy regime such as the Baathi ts, fully supported by the Russians, ages a war of genocide against small people that wants only to be your -friend. Give us anti-tank ns and ground-to-air-missiles and we will overthrow the Baathists a d expel the Russians from the he dwaters of the Persian Gulf. This i in our interest. But is also in the interest of Iran and the United Sat tes. So why not do it?" Barzani, with a note of sa ness in his gruff old voice, conce ed th'at independence for Iraqi Kur istan ? let alone for a Greater K rdistan uniting the 9 million Kurds of Iraq, Turkey, Iran, Syria and th Soviet Union ? was out of the ques ion. As we sipped strong, s eet tea from tiny glasses and nibbl d at an enormous tray of fresh fruit Barza- ni emphasized that his a bitions were restricted to Iraq and that he was prepared to enter int formal commitments with Turkey, ran and ? the United States to that effe t. "But the gates of your e bassies are closed to us," Barza i said, "When I send envoys to ashing- ton, they are received by friends such as Senator Jackson. B t Kiss- inger will not see them, Si co will not see them, Atherton will not see them. Kissinger spends day travel- ing between Damascus and Jerusa- lem to stop the fighting etween 'Syria and Israel, but he ill not spend five minutes in his o office to talk about the war here. e could understand being low down on the 'list. But fear we are not Oren on Approved For Release 1999/09/02 : CIA-RDP79-01194A000100540001-6 Approved For Release 1999/09/02 : CIA-RDP79-01194A000100540001-6 CPYRGHT Kissinger's list." I MENTIONED that America is concerned about the flow of Arab oil, of which Iraq produces about $9 billion worth annually. "'Is it really in your interest," Barzani snorted, "to have this 'oil controlled by an anti-American re- gime tied so closely to Moscow? They sell oil to you today, but will they do so tomorrow? Would it not be well to have a non-Arab source of oil controlled by your friends?" Barzani agreed that some of the reluctance of foreign nations to recognize the existence of the Kurd- - ish problem might be related to his age and the uncertainty of the na- ture of the leadership that might succeed him. But he pointed out that the Kurdish revolution had be- come institutionalized through the KDP, from which he has purged the Communists. "But if. America acts now," he said, "she can deal with one grumpy old rilian. We do not need troops or advisors. We are not as well-armed as Israelis, but there are more of us and we are just as good fighters. With a few anti-tank guns and anti-aircraft missiles, you can do a big thing here, one that will reduce Russian influence in the Gulf and contribute to the stability of the Middle East. At least, for God's sake, come and talk to us about it, or let us come to you." IT WAS past midnight and Barza- ni, who for security reasons never sleeps in the same place two nights in a row, looked tired. Before me lay an all-night drive over dirt roads to the Iranian city of Tabriz and the different world beyond ' Kurdistan. We exchanged presents a battery calculator for Barzarn,, . a riding crop for Idriss, a knife for Mas'oud, a curved dagger for me ? and said goodbye by the light of the full moon. "They say," Barzani remarked, "that the Kurds have no friends. If this is so, we will all die here. Do not let America wait too long to dis- cover that people who want to be her friends, who seek nothing that is ? not theirs, are dying for their free- dom." "Inshallah (if God wills it), General," I replied. , "Inshallah," he repeated, with a' note of resignation in his voice. We saluted each other and I drove off down the winding mountain road to Tabriz, leaving Mulla Mustapha Barzani standing in the moonlight, an erect, lonely but somehow in- domitable figure. The Kurds believe that each man has his own star in the firmament, and that he will not die until it falls. As we pulled out onto the Tabriz road, a shooting star streaked across the night sky and, away the west, like the grumbling of sum- mer thunder, I could hear the thud of Iraqi bombs falling onKurdistan. Approved For Release 1999/09/02 : CIA-RDP79-01194A000100540001-6